The Museum of Decorative Arts and Design is an overlooked gem in Riga, Lativa

The Museum of Decorative Arts and Design, Riga, Latvia. 2nd floor permanent collection — photo by author

I’ve been a full-time nomadic traveler since 2017, mainly in Europe and I’ve visited dozens of museums throughout the years. A few weeks back I went to the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design (MDAD), in Riga’s busy Old Town. MDAD is something special. It’s chill, it’s curated intentionally, it’s in a beautiful historic building, it’s got interactive elements, there’s stuff for kids and families. It also reflects Latvian history and culture, and it’s a nice escape from the tourists and crowds. 

Left: Exterior of the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design. Right: Exhibition info — photo by author

The museum has deep history. The building originated as part of a church from the 13^th century. It’s not a huge building, and yet it still has a lot of artwork on display: two rotating exhibitions and three permanent collections. It’s well curated. The individual artwork is unique and exciting, but there’s also a lot of thought that went into how the artwork is presented. That isn’t a small thing. How work is displayed can have a huge impact on the viewer’s experience. Don’t get me started on the Louvre and its warehouse approach to display. I’m also an artist, so I have some bias.

When I get to a city, I often go to museums I’ve heard about or that are connected to the art, history, ethnography, or archeology of the place. If it’s an art museum, I gravitate towards paintings, probably because I’m a painter. However, it can be a pleasant change to go to a design museum and see crafts and other design materials that remind me that art spans mediums. It’s good to look at a range of art from ceramics to wood to fabric and even metal. Art comes in many different forms, and it’s all around us.

When I first walked into MDAD, it had that familiar museum calm. This is essential for me when I’m tired of crowds of tourists. Keeping in mind, Riga is probably one of the least dense tourist places I’ve visited in the summer. The woman at the ticket counter was very friendly. All the Latvians I’ve encountered have been friendly, and I even get a smile on occasion. I felt very welcomed.

samples from “In the Name of Clay: 50 Years of Italian Ceramic Art.” — photos by author

The first exhibition I saw was “In the Name of Clay: 50 Years of Italian Ceramic Art.” I stepped down into a dark room. Ceramic works lined rows of tables. Each artwork was lit with a spotlight creating a theater-like presentation. The space had a vibe of being in a dark wine cellar or womb. It felt intimate, just me and the art. This was very intentional. There was room to breathe. Other than me and my husband, there were only two other people. As we walked around the space, I noticed that the front of the room had some natural light, and I soon discovered that it was the front part of what was once an old church. Then I looked up and noticed an open space with two more floors above, which was where the permanent collections were kept.

Museums can sometimes be overwhelming. I really like to take my time with art and not just breeze through. I often take a lunch or coffee break, splitting my museum time into parts. So, that’s what I did. My husband and I went across the street and grabbed some lunch. I think I had a veggie burger and fries. Once fueled we walked back to the museum for round two.

Fabric wall art in the stairwell of the museum — photo by author

On returning, we ventured up to the upper floors and the permanent collections. It’s worth mentioning the stairway; there were some large fabric wall hangings that I had to stop and take in. They stood out even more, as there were no other art pieces to distract my eye. 

Left: Fabric art in the stairwell. Right: Giant woven basket on it’s side.

On the second floor we walked through the exhibition of “Classical Values,” which showcases Latvian decorative applied arts from the end of the 19^th century until the 1960s. The wood furniture is a synthesis of styles honoring the popular Art Deco and Nouveau with traditional Latvian culture.

On the third floor we saw the Exhibition, “Design Process” which shows Latvian design from the 1960s to the present.

There was an interactive exhibit in the third floor hallway. It was about fabric design. I stood in front of a screen and could make the fabric images change depending on how I moved. I really appreciate opportunities to interact with the exhibits. It gives me a sense of connection and makes it stand out in my memory.

Three different fabric art wall hangings. The one in the middle is suspended to view from all sides. — photo by author

 From 1940 to 1991, Latvia was part of the Soviet Union. After spending time in former Soviet and Communist countries, I’ve seen how these historical periods have impacted architecture, as well as art and design. As I looked through the art, I thought about how what we create connects to the time we live in.  

Dresses made out of recycled materials. — photo by author

I like the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design more than I thought I would. I really loved the Italian Ceramic exhibit. I appreciated the work, but I also appreciated how the space supported the art and gave me a unique experience. I really enjoyed the permanent collections, as well. A few things that stood out: fancy looking dresses made out of recycled materials, ceramic functional plates that had intricate scenes painted on them, and a few large fabric installations.

Decorative ceramic plates with representational scenes. — photo by author

 My final thoughts. There are so many museums like this one that people can overlook. These smaller museums are often offer better experiences than the big popular tourist sites. This is the kind of place that surprised me and gave me way more than the ticket price. If you’re in Riga, I highly recommend checking out this wonderful museum.

Written by Roxanne

For more info on the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design in Riga, Lativa go here.

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